Jeffries himself was at the center of several more scandals.
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Throughout the ’90s, the brand’s cultural cache grew, with stars like Heidi Klum and Ashton Kutcher appearing in its ads. Shoppers walk in front of an Abercrombie & Fitch store in San Jose, Calif. The brilliance of the brand is that that went right over the head of their target customer, the straight college frat bro,” said journalist Benoit Denizet-Lewis. “It was clear to anyone who was paying attention that there were a lot of gay men involved in all of it. The overwhelming motifs of the ads were groups of scantily clad men interacting playfully, which the documentary notes has homoerotic undertones. Jefferies hired Bruce Weber, a famous fashion photographer with a signature style of capturing the eroticism of the male physique. Several Black employees recounted in the documentary how they were relegated to late night shifts stocking shelves.įormer CEO Mike Jeffries in "White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch." Courtesy of NetflixĪ second important piece was the advertising. Overwhelmingly, these employees were white. Recruiters would track down the most attractive frat guys at each college and enlist them as store employees. The promotional ploy for A&F was relatively simple: hire conventionally good-looking people.
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And combined it with this very sexy, sexual imagery,” New York Times business reporter Sapna Maheshwari said.
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“He found a way to connect the heritage of Abercrombie as established in 1892, catering to elite privileged people.
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Wexner brought on Mike Jeffries as A&F’s CEO, who cracked a formula for success that is outlined in the documentary. It fell out of popularity but in 1988, it was acquired by the clothing chain operator The Limited, whose CEO Les Wexner was dubbed “The Merlin of the Mall” for his marketing tactics on brands like Victoria’s Secret. The company began as an outdoors Americana brand worn by the likes of Teddy Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway. It might surprise many to learn that A&F’s roots extend back far further than the glory days of the suburban mall. “Exclusion is part of our society.”īenjamin O'Keefe, who started an online petition after reading a Salon interview with CEO Mike Jeffries, is featured in "White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch." Courtesy of Netflix “It’s why people liked that brand,” says Benjamin O’Keefe, an activist who mobilized a campaign against Abercrombie’s discrimination in 2013 and is featured heavily in the film. According to the employees, journalists and activists who appear in the film, the overwhelming theme is that discrimination was actually a feature rather than a bug. The new Netflix documentary “White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch” dissects both the aspirational nature of the brand and pulls back the curtain on the lawsuits and public relations disasters that tarnished its otherwise pristine image.